Building A Food Brand People Actually Feel Something For with J. Patrick Coyne of Laoban Dumplings
Most frozen food brands don’t leave you with an emotional reaction. They’re convenient, they’re fine, and they sit in your freezer until you forget they’re there. But every once in a while, a brand comes along with a story, a personality, and an energy that makes you stop in the aisle and think, “Okay… who are these people?”
That is exactly why I wanted to bring J. Patrick Coyne, founder and CEO of Laoban Dumplings, onto the show. This week on Above the Fold, Patrick talks about his journey from teaching English in China to running dumpling shops in D.C. to building one of the most talked-about frozen food brands right now is the kind of story that reminds you how far authenticity can take a company. And yes — he brought Roly, Laoban’s Chief Dough Officer, who might be the first guest in Above the Fold history to almost resign on-air.
The Spark Behind Laoban
Patrick’s entire business started with a tiny dumpling shop outside the school where he taught in China. He spent so much time there that he and his coworkers started calling the owner “Laoban,” which means “boss.” That experience stuck with him years later when he finally decided to start his own thing after leaving consulting and finance.
He opened several dumpling shops in Washington D.C., doing everything from opening and closing to mopping the floors and washing dishes. Eventually, he and his team pivoted to CPG during the pandemic by literally packing dumplings into bags and driving them to local grocery stores — with Roly riding shotgun as the aux-cord king.
Keeping Hospitality Alive in the Freezer Aisle
One of the most interesting parts of talking to Patrick was hearing how intentional he is about the user experience of frozen food. He sees frozen dumplings not as a step down from the restaurant version, but as an extension of the same hospitality he delivered every day in his brick-and-mortar shops.
Everything from packaging, to instructions, to clarity around how to heat the food — that’s all part of the experience. And when customers leave reviews like “These taste better when you heat them up,” Patrick doesn’t roll his eyes. He sees it as his responsibility to make sure nothing is assumed and everything is clear.
Simplicity and Emotion as a Brand Advantage
Laoban’s brand identity is bold because it’s simple. Their first packaging didn’t even use photos — just text and clean design. It was risky, but it got the attention of early retailers and curious customers. As the brand grew into Whole Foods, Target, Walmart, Fresh Thyme, and even Costco, they evolved the packaging while keeping the core feel intact.
And then there’s Roly.
The mascot isn’t an afterthought. He’s emotional glue. Kids spot him on shelves and drag the product into the cart. Adults love him because he adds personality to a category that can feel stale. Roly makes the brand feel warm, fun, and approachable — especially for families trying global foods at home for the first time.
Scaling With Honesty Instead of Shortcuts
One of my favorite moments in our conversation was when Patrick talked about pulling a product launch from Whole Foods because it wasn’t meeting his standards. Instead of pushing it through and hoping for the best, he was upfront with the retailer, even though it meant risking the relationship. It paid off — they ended up collaborating on the bao line, which became one of their most successful product launches yet.
Transparency builds trust, whether you're talking to consumers or buyers. That mindset is a big part of why Laoban is scaling so quickly and so sustainably.
Frozen Food Doesn’t Have To Be Boring
Patrick wants Laoban to be the modern frozen Asian brand — and he’s not underselling the opportunity. Frozen food hasn’t seen real innovation in decades. The number one selling frozen Asian item in the U.S. is still Marie Callender’s Sweet and Sour Chicken. That alone tells you how much whitespace exists and why Laoban stands out.
Between scallion pancakes, Taiwanese popcorn chicken, bao, and dumplings, Patrick’s team is building a full world of modern, high-quality Asian comfort food designed for real households and real weeknights.
What Stays The Same As They Grow
Whether it’s the packaging, the flavors, or the characters on the box, Laoban’s north star is joy. Patrick wants people to feel excited when they see his product in the freezer aisle. He wants the brand to feel warm, familiar, and fun. And he wants Roly to keep doing what Roly does best — spreading love and dumplings.
